Mary Smith with this week’s episode of life in Afghanistan in 1989 as Mary and Jon travel through the winter passes with some nervous passengers and a few off road experiences…brilliant as always..
MarySmith’sPlace – Falling off a mountain – snow, ice & wolves AfghanistanAdventures#57
Afghanistan, December 1989
As we prepared to leave Arif’s clinic he became unusually quiet until, as he was saying goodbye, I realised how upset he was by his young brother, Sharif’s departure. He was coming with us to Pakistan where Arif had arranged for him to attend school in Karachi. I promised to take care of him, and with tears in his eyes he finally released Sharif from a tight embrace. If Sharif felt similar emotion, he concealed it well, appearing self-possessed about the prospect of not seeing his family for several years.
Leprosy patient, Zahir on the left, Arif’s young brother Sharif preparing to travel to Pakistan
We stopped for lunch at the edge of Naoor where I noticed Sharif patiently helping to tear up Zahir’s nan before requesting a spoon for him, without which it was impossible for him to eat. His right wrist, which had previously flopped about, had now been firmly splinted. We feared a bone was broken (in fact X rays in Karachi showed the bone had not broken, but had crumbled away, attacked by pus bacteria which had presumably started life in an old, infected wound.) Despite his sorry state, Zahir still retained his high good humour, dissolving into his terrifying asthmatic giggle at the slightest thing. He was also becoming less self-conscious about his appearance, no longer keeping his face hidden behind his turban tail.
As there was only another three hours travelling in front of us to Malestan we decided there was no need to re-fill the thermoses at the chaikhana – more fool us. As the road began to climb steeply, becoming increasingly twisty and treacherous, we found ourselves, once again, in a snowy landscape. There was nothing to be seen, except a few rocks, appearing bald-headed, where wind had swept off their snowy caps.
Head over to discover how things did not work out as planned and how dangerous it became: Falling off a mountain – snow, ice & wolves AfghanistanAdventures#57
A selection of books by Mary Smith